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Natalie Luder

Awarded

Natalie Luder

'Das Jagdessen', jewellery collection and video clip; 'Breakfast at Tiffany's', table ware set

Jewellery and Objects

Jury report

White Gold
For her de­gree piece, Na­talie Luder ex­plored the cus­toms of Baroque ban­quets, which also formed the basis for her two award-win­ning pro­jects.Around the 'Das Jagdessen' Luder has con­structed a world that fo­cuses on the pre­dom­i­nant ma­te­r­ial in her col­lec­tion: rab­bits' teeth. With seem­ingly in­fi­nite pa­tience, she threaded this 'ivory' to­gether to cre­ate the cen­tral piece in her col­lec­tion: '125 Lap­ins'. How­ever, rather than pre­sent­ing her work in a con­ven­tional glass show­case, Luder or­gan­ised a hunters' feast. For that oc­ca­sion, her jew­ellery was worn like tro­phies by the hosts, giv­ing the guests ample op­por­tu­nity to see the pre­cious items up close at first hand. The menu was based on the 125 rab­bits that had sur­ren­dered their teeth and their lives to pro­duce the jew­ellery. Tak­ing her cue from the sump­tu­ous, drawn-out fes­tiv­i­ties of the Baroque era, the artist re­searched a wide va­ri­ety of recipes for rab­bit and hare, and had them pre­pared by a team of 15 chefs. This unique ban­quet was cap­tured on cam­era and doc­u­mented in the form of a short film. Which is just as well, given that the prepa­ra­tion and or­gan­i­sa­tion of the feast took no less than three years. Luder likes to push bound­aries, not only test­ing her own lim­its but also chal­leng­ing the viewer. For all the grace and beauty of her jew­ellery, the ma­te­r­ial it­self is strange and un­set­tling.
In her work 'Break­fast at Tiffany's' Luder in­vites us to take a seat at a table where friend­ship is ho­n­oured as a rare jewel. For this de­sign, Luder took her in­spi­ra­tion from the clas­sic string of pearls. But in­stead of pearls, she has cre­ated nine porce­lain plates and one of gold-plated brass, the lat­ter sym­bol­is­ing the clasp of the neck­lace. This is the place set­ting of the host­ess. She is the one who brings the cir­cle of friends to­gether and holds the threads of the com­pany seated around the table. All her ob­jects are closely linked to a world of rit­u­als and sym­bols in which so­cial in­ter­ac­tion al­ways plays the cen­tral role.
Anna Niederhäuser

Biography

Natalie Luder
Born in
1973
Education
Designer HES, bijoux

Web

www.natalieluder.ch

also in

2012

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