Awarded

PortenierRoth: Sabine Portenier / Evelyne Roth

Fashion collections 'Croisière 11' and 'Croisière 12' (2011/2012)

Fashion and Textile Design

Jury report

A Declaration of Love for All Seasons
Sabine Porte­nier and Eve­lyne Roth have won the Swiss Fed­eral De­sign Award 2012 for their year-round col­lec­tions 'Croisière 11' and 'Croisière 12'. These col­lec­tions are de­signed for women - with or with­out curves - who exude a cer­tain self-con­fi­dence; this is fash­ion that is in­tended to con­vey a sense of free­dom. Be­tween them, the key items of the col­lec­tions, which can read­ily be com­bined, meet the needs of all sea­sons. The de­sign­ers feel that it is im­por­tant to ex­press a cer­tain sen­su­al­ity, but it is also im­por­tant that this should not re­strict the wear­ers of the clothes in their every­day lives. In­stead, they should be able to go about their daily busi­ness with a con­fi­dent, mod­ern and time­less air.
'Croisière 11' is based on three basic cuts and con­sists of 25 dif­fer­ent looks. In the de­sign process, the first cut was al­ways a back to front move­ment, like a sweep­ing em­brace. The fab­rics are placed on the body from be­hind, with the spine as the start­ing point for the com­po­si­tion. An em­brace is also the as­pi­ra­tion for how it should feel to wear these clothes. Al­most all the pieces have an ac­cen­tu­ated seam at the spine, which breaks up the flat sur­face of the back and per­mits an elon­ga­tion of the wearer's sil­hou­ette. Side seams are largely ab­sent. The front and rear view are gen­er­ally geo­met­ri­cal in shape, whereas the sides play with vol­umes and bring a cer­tain en­ergy into the de­sign.
Ex­per­i­men­tal com­bi­na­tions in­ter­est the two de­sign­ers more than the con­cept of 'sea­sons'. The idea is to tempt the wearer to try the so-called lay­ered look. The col­lec­tion does not con­tain any lined coats or jack­ets. By form­ing lay­ers, the in­di­vid­ual pieces from the col­lec­tion act as lin­ing or as an outer layer, al­ways re­main­ing vis­i­ble to some de­gree. The ma­te­ri­als are nat­ural. Light cot­ton is com­bined with coarser ma­te­ri­als, and prints, colour­ings and em­broi­dery cre­ated by the de­sign­ers are used to trans­form the light-coloured plain fab­rics wher­ever pos­si­ble.
Sabine Porte­nier and Eve­lyne Roth have trav­elled the globe to study dif­fer­ent tai­lor­ing tech­niques, which pro­vide the in­spi­ra­tion for their unique cuts. Their in­ten­tion is to give more promi­nence to hand­craft­ing in the fu­ture and to move to­wards in­creased in-house pro­duc­tion. A fac­tory is cur­rently under con­struc­tion close to their stu­dio in Thun, with an ad­join­ing shop for di­rect re­tail. It is to be hoped that this re­mark­able duo will meet with the same de­gree of suc­cess in the mar­ket.

Biography

Sabine Portenier
Born in
1971
Education
Fashion Designer
Group name
PortenierRoth

Web

also in

2013

2014

Evelyne Roth
Born in
1978
Education
Fashion Designer
Group name
PortenierRoth

also in

2013

2014