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Published on 31 October 2024

Awarded

Cornelia Peter

Womenswear collection 'The man who flew into space from his apartment' (diploma work)

Fashion Design

Jury report

The dream of flying
The fash­ion de­signer Cor­nelia Peter calls her 2005/2006 col­lec­tion 'The man who flew into space from his apart­ment'. This enig­matic-sound­ing title refers to a col­lec­tion in­tended as a homage to dy­namism and the dream of fly­ing. The de­signer bor­rowed the idea from an in­stal­la­tion by the Russ­ian artist Ilya Kabakov. But how can we use clothes to es­cape from the earth's grav­ity? At a first glance, Cor­nelia Peter's de­signs look quite earth-bound, given the amount of fur that the de­signer uses for her coats, stoles or cuffs. You could wrongly as­sume that these clothes were in­tended for trap­pers, not for peo­ple dream­ing about fly­ing. But that would be a long way from the truth: Peter's de­signs may seem earth­ily heavy, but they are light and airy. These clothes are cut with such vir­tu­os­ity and trimmed with coloured threads using a highly in­di­vid­ual tech­nique ('Wiefel­tech­nik'), which makes them look as light as feath­ers. The de­signer em­broi­ders her cre­ations in ir­reg­u­lar areas and to pro­duce dif­fer­ent thick­nesses, which cre­ates an amaz­ing vi­sual ef­fect. It gives the clothes ad­di­tional vol­ume, dec­o­rat­ing them and giv­ing them more tex­ture and ac­cents. The al­ter­na­tion of em­broi­dered and un-em­broi­dered sur­faces cre­ates a ten­sion that makes the gar­ments vi­brate in the in­ter­play be­tween the dif­fer­ent colours used. The fash­ion de­signer has a bravura com­mand of this vir­tu­oso game with for­mal con­trasts. She also com­bines ma­te­ri­als hav­ing quite dif­fer­ent con­no­ta­tions with equally ef­fort­less ease. This col­lec­tion is in­tended, says the de­signer, with a twin­kle in her eye, for the woman who loves the dream of fly­ing. But peo­ple who wear Cor­nelia Peter's clothes should not just be in­ter­ested in dream­ing of fly­ing. They should be ready to stand up to the cu­ri­ous and amazed looks that this coura­geously off-beat col­lec­tion is bound to at­tract.
Peter Stohler

Biography

Cornelia Peter
Born in
1975
Education
Designerin FH in Modedesign