PortenierRoth

Awarded

PortenierRoth: Sabine Portenier / Evelyne Roth 

Fashion collections 'Croisière 11' and 'Croisière 12' (2011/2012)

Fashion and Textile Design

A Declaration of Love for All Seasons
Sabine Porte­nier and Eve­lyne Roth have won the Swiss Fed­eral De­sign Award 2012 for their year-round col­lec­tions 'Croisière 11' and 'Croisière 12'. These col­lec­tions are de­signed for women - with or with­out curves - who exude a cer­tain self-con­fi­dence; this is fash­ion that is in­tended to con­vey a sense of free­dom. Be­tween them, the key items of the col­lec­tions, which can read­ily be com­bined, meet the needs of all sea­sons. The de­sign­ers feel that it is im­por­tant to ex­press a cer­tain sen­su­al­ity, but it is also im­por­tant that this should not re­strict the wear­ers of the clothes in their every­day lives. In­stead, they should be able to go about their daily busi­ness with a con­fi­dent, mod­ern and time­less air.
'Croisière 11' is based on three basic cuts and con­sists of 25 dif­fer­ent looks. In the de­sign process, the first cut was al­ways a back to front move­ment, like a sweep­ing em­brace. The fab­rics are placed on the body from be­hind, with the spine as the start­ing point for the com­po­si­tion. An em­brace is also the as­pi­ra­tion for how it should feel to wear these clothes. Al­most all the pieces have an ac­cen­tu­ated seam at the spine, which breaks up the flat sur­face of the back and per­mits an elon­ga­tion of the wearer's sil­hou­ette. Side seams are largely ab­sent. The front and rear view are gen­er­ally geo­met­ri­cal in shape, whereas the sides play with vol­umes and bring a cer­tain en­ergy into the de­sign.
Ex­per­i­men­tal com­bi­na­tions in­ter­est the two de­sign­ers more than the con­cept of 'sea­sons'. The idea is to tempt the wearer to try the so-called lay­ered look. The col­lec­tion does not con­tain any lined coats or jack­ets. By form­ing lay­ers, the in­di­vid­ual pieces from the col­lec­tion act as lin­ing or as an outer layer, al­ways re­main­ing vis­i­ble to some de­gree. The ma­te­ri­als are nat­ural. Light cot­ton is com­bined with coarser ma­te­ri­als, and prints, colour­ings and em­broi­dery cre­ated by the de­sign­ers are used to trans­form the light-coloured plain fab­rics wher­ever pos­si­ble.
Sabine Porte­nier and Eve­lyne Roth have trav­elled the globe to study dif­fer­ent tai­lor­ing tech­niques, which pro­vide the in­spi­ra­tion for their unique cuts. Their in­ten­tion is to give more promi­nence to hand­craft­ing in the fu­ture and to move to­wards in­creased in-house pro­duc­tion. A fac­tory is cur­rently under con­struc­tion close to their stu­dio in Thun, with an ad­join­ing shop for di­rect re­tail. It is to be hoped that this re­mark­able duo will meet with the same de­gree of suc­cess in the mar­ket.

Sabine Portenier
Born in
1971
Education
Fashion Designer
Group name
PortenierRoth

Evelyne Roth
Born in
1978
Education
Fashion Designer
Group name
PortenierRoth